Triund: Ascent

At lunch yesterday, everyone was discussing the best hour to depart McLeod to climb Triund. Chemey started the bidding at 7 AM. Lobsang upped the ante to 5:30. Lepa, who wasn’t even going, suggested four in the morning. We compromised and woke up at 4:30 to beat the afternoon heat. Unlike the last time, when we walked all the way from McLeod, we took taxis to a convenient starting point at the base of the mountain.

The crew arrives at “base camp”: Phuntsok, Chemey, Lhakpa, Passang, Dave, a young friend of Passang and Lhakpa’s, Lobsang, Bennett

The climb begins

Cliffside hermit dwelling

Sunrise over Triund

We arrived at the “Magic View” cafe at 7:30 AM and stopped for breakfast.

Left to right: Lower Dharamsala, Mcleod, Triund, cafe, Hindu temple

Lhakpa and Passang woke up at 3:30 this morning to finish making breakfast for everyone—boiled eggs, potatoes (aloo), and puris.

Breakfast at Triund


They made homemade…

We [Passang and Lhakpa], together.

[I’m not sure] how [the] taste is.

Please, have seat…

[egg rolls on metal plate]

Whoops—here Lobsang, have some eggs.

Last time we stay here also.

I thought [these potatoes] weren’t enough, that’s why we made this… we boiled the eggs.

[Laughter]

Did you understand?

No.

She asked him [the young friend] question, you know: “What do you want to do in [the] future?” and he replied “I want to be a killer.”

[Laughing hard]

Then she asked “Are you going to be a lady killer?

[Laughing]

He said “No, I’m going to kill men… staying in the jungle.

When [Lhakpa] did fry [the puris], I was also there making rolls, and she’s counting like: “Now, this is Chemey, this is Bennett, this is David; David’s complete! Now Dave complete, now Chemey’s [complete]!”

Magic View Cafe Owner


This is only for rain…

Yeah, yeah, this filling it not take time—not hardly fifteen minute when the pipe will full. It not take time. Only use for washing. There are many people passing and they look the water. They think [I] use the water for tea but I can’t—not only for the people but I want to eat myself also, you know? I don’t do the kind of dirty stuff, no. I don’t like.

I have friend, I know him last even [twenty years] and he’s from the place called New Orleans—2002 there’s flooding even his house [washed away] and then he come every year, and then I meet him and he’s not really happy—the feeling. And then when I meet him the third year, then he’s happy—he get 50 percent [for his house], then I say “Better than nothing,” you know? And he bring every year six or seven groups—big groups—20–25 students–

Here?

Yeah! Even higher [sometimes] and they spend the night a couple of days…

Moving on…

Passang saves us from a falling boulder

Lobsang moved up the mountain at lightning speed, so most of the trip he was just a tiny speck of red against the green cliffs. I even mistook him once for a distant flowering plant until I saw he him waving.

Small Dave

Very small Dave

Eaten By Bears


[Indian tourist screams into the echoing valley]

[A more distant shout responds]

[Phuntsok from below] Dave-La!

How are you?

Little bit exhausted… now we almost reach… to destination. [laughing, sighing]

Hoo! I feel a little more… little more… [Indian tourists shouting to create echoes]

Where’s the two couples [Passang and Lhakpa]? They are way back.

Passang! Passang! Oh…

Passang!

Passang! Passang! Passang!

Maybe they’re eaten by bear [laughs]… they’re both eat by bear! Well, let’s go, they’ll come…

The last ridge

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